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Girl, eating in Kumaon.

"The mountains are calling... and I must go" - John Muir, naturalist and conservationist If it is indeed true that the mountains have a call, it was indeed a persistent one for me last year. Memories of trekking the Himalayas at Kashmir had hardly faded when I found myself looking at the mountain range from the other end in Assam. (Check out my posts from these trips, if you haven't already!) And close on its heels was this trip to Nainital, Uttarakhand, where, once again, I was awe-struck by the majestic snow-clad peaks of the Kumaon Himalayas. Ac'quaint'ances in Haldwani My stay was in Haldwani, a town in the Nainital district, where the mountains appear in the backdrop everywhere you go! Exploring Haldwani on foot on a typical North Indian winter evening, I found myself the comfort of a perfect c up of chai at  ChaiLok. I would rate them 4.5/5 just for the ambience and their playlist! That's my Saunf-wali Chai in the pic below. Yeah, S...
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To Japan without a boarding pass

Travel lets you explore food. But nothing beats exploring new lands through food! Last month, my fellow food adventurer Badhri and I had lunch at Teburu, a Japanese restaurant in Kalyan Nagar, Bangalore. It was my first experience with Japanese cuisine and I was quite excited.  The ambience was welcoming, with artificial cherry blossoms all around the room easing us into the very Japanese menu. (I would lose the 90's pop music, though, in favour of some Japanese instrumentals for the feels.) Miso soup Ever since I played the card game, Sushi Go!, I'd been curious to try Miso soup. So that was our first order. Miso is a paste made from fermented soybeans and it is added to vegetable stock to make the soup. Here, in Teburu, they served it with tofu and seaweed in it. The Miso Soup is unlike anything I've had before. In fact, that can be said for most dishes I tried that day. The flavours and textures are so foreign that I would be careful about whom I recommend it t...

AT HOME IN ASSAM- TEA, RICE AND RHINOS!

The bus stopped for a tea break just 30 minutes before my destination: Tezpur, Assam. It was only six in the evening but it was already dark. I clambered down with the other passengers, found a corner table to sit at and watched the others order. Tea, a savoury snack and rasgullas! I signalled to the guy bringing a round of tea to give me a glass too. I asked him in Hindi what the people at the other table were getting. “Nimki?” he asked. It sounded like it might be the savoury fried snack I wanted. Nodding my head vigorously to that is how I managed to get my first bite, and learned my first word, of Assamese. It was a short trip in Assam and thanks to my lovely hosts- my friend, Bhanu and his wife, Panchali  (isn't it such a beautiful name?) - I managed to get a good look into life and ways of the Assamese. The Assamese love their fish, so it is hard for them to imagine what I, a vegetarian, could possibly explore in their cuisine. But if you look closely enough, you ca...

Unlocking Combinations

"More important than the food pairing is the person with whom you drink the wine", said Christian Moueix, a famous winemaker.   Christian isn't wrong but if you love playing host and chef, like I do, the challenge more often is to figure out  what dishes you can put together for a memorable meal for your lovely guests. It's enough if you can pull off a lip-smacking biriyani for all but I  love pushing myself to try and do more than one dish. Googling 'Vegetarian recipes for a dinner party' sure gives direction, but I am yet to find a website that tells me how to make great vegetarian dishes AND tells me which ones to put together. That's partly the inspiration for this post. Yesterday, I put together a special dinner for a friend before her last day of work. This was the fancy menu description: grapefruit salad, pomodoro and mushroom bruschetta, and Thai green curry served with fragrant rice. A lot of inaccuracies in that description, as you sh...

Of Zafran and Kahwa: Food trails in Kashmir

"Look at them all you want for free but touch them and you'll have to pay", warned the man at the small apple-stall next to the roadside orchard. The apple trees stood neatly in rows, laden with small green apples in bunches at arm's reach, validating the sellers' concerns. My friends and I took a few selfies with the famed Kashmiri apples before we resumed our journey to Sonmarg. It was July. We had started from Srinagar and were headed to our base camp from where we would begin a 7-day trek in the Himalayas. And it was amazing how much I had learnt about the local produce and exotic foods of Kashmir already.  Kahwa, the Kashmiri elixir: The day we landed in Srinagar, we shopped for papier-mache boxes and kurtis with kashida embroidery. But our most-anticipated buy was a bottle of kahwa mix. Kahwa is a green tea flavoured with spices like cardamom, cinnamon and saffron and topped with crushed pista and almonds. A Kashmiri favourite, and it follow...